Thursday, April 16, 2009

The Trudge North

 

We had really hoped to get some more good weather, jump out in the ocean and end at Beaufort, NC.  The good weather did not happen.  Plodding up the intercoastal waterway becomes our fate.  This morning we awoke with first light, to a balmy 48°.  I'm not sure about you, but after becoming accustomed to the 80° temperatures of the Bahamas this is just plain cold.  I would have preferred to stay in bed for another hour or two, hoping it would warm up a but, but in 30 miles we will reach the Atlantic Beach Bridge.  On our way down the intercoastal, we saw 62 ft clearance at this bridge and had to wait an entire day to go under during a low tide.  Hopefully we make it there today while the tide is still low enough to give us the 63 foot clearance we need.

The trip north is much different from our trip south. On the way south, everything was new to us, the boat, the intercoastal, bridges, and shallows.  Everyday I would spend hours reading several different guides and studying the charts to prepare for each days journey.  During the trip I stayed in the cockpit reading the charts, pointing out marks and navigating for IB.  The days were shorter and we weren't sure how far we could push the boat in a day, so we planned 30 mile days.  On this trip, I've left IB on his own.  I toss him the chartbook, pop my head out occasionally to offer him a hot beverage, food, or more warm clothes.  There are still shallows to contend with, we've run aground 3 times, but always motor right off.  Besides, we are in the protected inland waters, in event we can't get off a grounding we just call Tow Boat US and take advantage of their unlimited towing.  It now feels like quite a luxury knowing that we are not left to our own devices if we make a mistake.  Planning 60 mile days, we expect to hit Norfolk on Tuesday. 

I'd post a picture, but it's too cold to go out and take one.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Dolphins off the Bow

There is nothing quite so peaceful as being on a sailboat, in the middle of the ocean on a fair day with steady winds. We left Green Turtle Cay on Wednesday morning with RC's Dream, planning to stay overnight at Great Sale Cay. After listening to the days updated weather reports, our best chance of getting the farthest North was to just keep going. So we did. We left the Little Bahama bank somewhere around 9:00pm and headed North West

toward the Gulf Stream. The winds were predicted to shift south by morning. They didn't. By mid afternoon, we are still beating into the wind, heeled over to starboard with none of the crew feeling all too lively. Finally, when one more trip below decks feels like it will be too much, the winds subside. The light and variable winds are not quite the steady south we were planning on, but the boat is more or less level s

o we'll gladly accept it and start the engine for a while. The batteries could use the charge anyway after running the autopilot all night.

As I think about all the power the autopilot consumes, I glance back at the windvane. It is starting to look like a hunk of stainless attached to the back of the boat rather than something useful. Theoretically, it is very useful, steering the boat off the power of the wind, not sucking a single drop of power from our batteries. Since we bought the boat, there has not been a really good opportunity to set it up and try it out. This does indeed look like a really good opportunity, as I scan the horizon seeing water everywhere. But who has the energy. After twenty-four hours at sea, half of that time heeled over at a forty-five degree angle and beating into the wind, life has become very simple. Set sails, set course, keep watch for ships, eat, drink more water and take turns sleeping. There is a peace and energy indescribable that comes from this simplicity of life hundreds of miles from land. Until we have a chance to level out for a while, I can't imagine eating anything but crackers for the next two days.

Thursday night passes uneventfully. Sit in the dark, watch the horizon for lights and listen to the whoosh of water as we slice through it. Friday morning, I awake remarkably refreshed. I may be getting the hang of this dispersed napping schedule. What a nice day it turns out to be. The winds start off a bit light, but Chris Parker assures us they will pick up. And they do. By noon, we have a solid 15 kts from the south, the seas are only two feet. As the wind builds throughout the day, we have to stop and put a reef in the main sail. With both the main and jib reefed, along with a boost from the Gulf Stream we are heading North at 10kts. I didn't even know the boat could go that fast!

Now as evening approaches, the winds stay steady, the seas are building and I watch the line of fluffy white clouds, the front that is slowly rolling in. Still 70 miles to shore. The seas have gotten rougher by now, we've seen some 8 foot waves roll through. We become increasingly fond of our boat as she accepts what the sea throws at her and rolls right over it.

Suddenly we notice the dolphins have come up to our boat. We think we counted eight of them, but it was hard to tell they kept moving so quickly. They swam, jumped and played in our bow wake for a couple of hours. Staying with us till the sun went down. Strapped into the jacklines I staggered up to the bow to get a closer look and try to snap a few pictures. Holding onto the rail, with the

boat traveling about 9kts, and bucking as the 6-8 foot seas roll by, I lean over the edge to try and

snap some pictures. No time for framing here, it's point and click, or sometimes just click and hope it pointed right. It's amazing to watch such quick powerful creatures swim and play with our boat. Apparently, we were the most interesting thing around this even. Although, with a quick scan of the horizon, best I can tell we are the only thing around this evening. Unless you count the flying fish, which are often jumping from the water and flying like a flock of birds away from our boat.

Friday night turns a little less than pleasant. The winds continue to pick up, gusting 25-30kts. The seas are still 6 feet. It takes constant perseverance to keep the boat on course. We watch the lightning in the distance and hope we will miss the storm. We do mostly miss it, but get wet from some showers. As dawn emerges, we have arrived at our inlet. And very happy to see the large, well marked ship inlet. As we are heading in though the channel markers, bundled up in our foul weather gear, observing the brown water all around us, we have to ask, "Why did we leave the Bahamas?"

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Family Visitation

 

My Mom and Brother managed to tear themselves away from their cold lives in WV to visit us on our boat.  We had hoped to have some nice calm days to do some snorkeling, but unfortunately we had high winds all week.  So we sailed instead.

066 It didn't take long for them to be relaxing with a cool refreshing rum punch in hand.

We made a pretty good circuit of the island along the sea of abaco.  Our first visit was to Great Guana Cay, where we walked over to the beach to be pelted with wind and look out over the breakers relentlessly crashing on the beach.  (Two days after they left, returned to Guana to see the beach completely calm)  With nothing but wind in the forcast, we opted for a sailing day and headed down to Treasure Cay.  Treasure Cay has a nice long white sand beach looking out over the sea of Abaco, however it was windy and the water was rough.  After a look and short walk, we headed to the pub to try the rum punch. 

The following day, once again windy right on the beach, we took a ferry ride over to Green Turtle Cay.  We rented a golf cart and explored all over the island.March 144 And of course, the last even before getting back on the ferry, try the rum punch.March 199

Over all the trip was a success, maybe next time the weather will cooperate for snorkeling.