Christmas in Charleston

My parents drove down to spend Christmas with us in Charleston, SC.  We docked Passport at the city marina and rented an airbnb house for the week.  The house was fabulous, a beautifully renovated duplex downtown in the historic district. With two master bedrooms, a lovely living room and large kitchen, we barely needed to leave the house.  Lyra particuarlly loved the spacious house that did not rock or move! She had a fabulous time exploring everywhere in the home with room to run and play. My Dad brought her new cat beds and she took turns sleeping in every one of them. She did have a chance to get out and explore the city on a horse and buggy ride, walk in the park and even went out to dinner one evening.

The day after Christmas, the weather turned favorable to head back out to sea for another run south. We packed up, reluctantly left the beautiful home (Lyra was the most upset by this), said our good-byes, cast off the docklines.  Hoping to make it to somewhere in Florida, depending on how long the weather allowed,  we headed to sea and turned south.

Just hanging out at the house in my Christmas sweater. 

It seems that Lyra can even get away with being on counters while we are on vacation, and this counter is HUGE.

Out for a walk at the park

Lyra hiding her face during the horse and buggy ride.

Lyra making use of one of the four beds Dad brought for her.

Even Lyra needed to sample the wonderful cuisine available in Charleston.

Carolina's

 We had an easy trip across the Arbemarle Sound with no more incidence, either with the boat or the cat.  Over the next three days, we stopped over night at an anchorage in the Alligator River, at a marina in Belhaven and even had a great day of weather and easy winds to cross over the Neuse River.  The Neuse River is known for becoming very uncomfortable as high winds can quickly build choppy rough seas, we know this all too well as we have experienced it on previous trips.

Just as we were at the mouth of Adams creek on the eastern shore of the Neuse River and only a couple of miles from our planned anchorage, the engine, once again, spuddered and died.  We quickly dropped anchor and IB went below decks to investigate. An hour later he came back up to the cockpit, IbGueyver got the engine running and we made it the short distance to our anchorage.  I have no idea what he really did, although I’m quite certain it was something only IB or MacGuyver could pull off.  I certainly did not ask any questions when we had to turn off the generator, that wasn’t actually running, once we were safely anchored for the night!

The following day we limped into Beaufort City docks where Craig from EMD met up with us to polish our fuel and tanks. Apparently while the boat sat neglected for three years microbes were growning and creating sludge in the diesel tanks. While the boat was being tended to, Lyra and I took a walk around town. Later that evening we headed over to Backstreet Pub, a local gem of a watering hole.  Known as dog friendly pub, Lyra felt right at home on a bar stool.

The following day with our fuel and engine troubles behind us, we managed one easy day to an achorage. The following day would be our second call to TowBoat US.

The ocean inlets along the ICW are well known for shifting sand and shallows caused by the tides and strong currents.  The New River Inlet crossing is no exception, and known as one of the worst.  I had found some coordinates online that were supposed to have marked a deeper water route, but when not followed exactly we ended up hard aground in the middle of the ICW.  We thought we would just need towed through the inlet crossing and then be on our way again, but during the hour wait for TowBoat US, and the captain’s determined attempts to fix the situation, our impeller was destroyed.  Although the engine would still run it would no longer pick up cooling water.  We ended up towed to Harbour Village Marina.  While the captain was replacing the impeller, I took advantage of the time and made a hatch cover for our forward hatch.  I have forgotten to mention when we finally took our dingy off the deck and it rained we discovered that the forward hatch leaks. When I say ‘leak’ I don’t mean a few droplets. I was once again, very greatful for the water resistant comforter on the bed! Every few years we have to replace the rubber seal around the hatch to eliminate any leaks, but unfortnately that was not the case this time as the window was coming unseated from the frame, being a much bigger repair than we had the time (or materials) for I simply made a “band-aid” for it.  There was even time left in the day to take Lyra off the boat for a walk around the marina.

The next day, having our recent problems fixed again, we got a break in the weather and were able to go to sea at Masonboro and sail overnight to Charleston, SC.

Sunset on the Alligator River 

Watching them work on the fuel tanks at Beaufort NC

Lyra getting in some good bar stool time.  She only looks unhappy because she does not like the flash.

Lyra found a good tree to climb while walking in the park.

Off watch during the overnight passage at sea.

Passport at sea, heading south.

Towboat US

The next several days were uneventful.  Lyra stayed close by my side (not that she had a choice in the matter), and had no more ‘incidents’.  The Espar diesel heater on board was working sporadically and required cleaning the fuel filter daily.  We should have seen this as a warning, but in our haste to get south and somewhere warm we failed to listen.  We were making great time, on day three we made it out of the Chesapeake Bay and headed down the Intracostal Waterway. 

12.10.2018 … my logbook reads … Depart: 6:36AM Broad Creek, NC … Arrive: 2:49PM Coinjock Marina, Coinjock, NC …. a quick look at a map will show that it was indeed a long day, to go two hours backwards...

The previous day, just after we were motoring through the Currituck Sound, IB made several comments that he was glad our motor didn’t die.  The ICW is a deep narrow channel that goes through the approximately 4 foot deep sound.  Our boat needs 6 feet of water. We have never had engine problems in the past, so I didn’t think too much of his concerns.  

About an hour after entering the Arlbamarle Sound, (fortunately the Arlamarle is plenty deep enough that we don’t have to stay in a channel) the engine sputtered and died.  I had been below deck with Lyra, and quickly went up to enquire at the sudden silence, after all maybe the sailing was so great IB decided to turn off the engine!  Of course that was not the case. The engine was dead. Fortunately our boat is equiped with sails and we had wind, so no immediate danger.  IB tinkered with the engine for a few moments until he decided it really wasn’t coming back on. That is when I made our first call to Towboat US.  We have always carried unlimted towing insurance with Towboat US when we have been in US waters, this was our first time using it.  An hour later, our towboat arrived, met us in the sound and towed us back to Coinjock Marina.  A few hours of IB tinkering with the engine, and the conclusion was that we needed to have our fuel tanks cleaned out and the fuel polished.  We called around and found someone who could do this… in Beaufort, NC.  It was possible to get someone to come to us, but at our location the price tag was high.  IB felt very confident that he had all the filters and everything cleaned out and it was indeed running again.  We wanted to get across the sound with mild weather, which meant leaving the next day… feeling hopeful and anxious to get somewhere warm, off we went at first light.

Passport receiving her first tow with Towboat US.

Staying on leash, staying close. She has no choice.

Staying very close, the face really says it all!

We cleared out all chart-books and lost yet another storage area, but Lyra now has her own special cubby to hide in.  She is safe and easy to check on.  She often goes to her cubby when she's feeling uncomfortable, or just wants a nap.

Day 1 ... Hour 2 ...

We were making great time motor-sailing south in the Chesapeake Bay, the winds were light and the current was gently pushing us along.  With the boat under control, I left the Captain at the helm to go below and check on how Lyra was fairing... obviously not very well as  I discovered she had peed on our bed!

I quickly stripped off the top covers as we had just replaced the mattress before our departure, not to mention we would like to sleep in this bed.  Fortunately I had also purchased a new duvet, a nice down alternative with water resistant cover!  The duvet cover was soaked but no liquid penetrated the duvet.

Although we were very unhappy with Lyra, walking by the head I realized for her first day under sail there was quite a bit of movement and even with her custom toilet seat it was probably a little confusing and scary for her.  The next several days the plan was to keep her close at my side, in her backpack as we are getting underway and on leash beside me at all other times.  It only took a few days and this worked great.  She quickly got the hang of using the head while moving (sometimes calling me to come help hold or comfort her), and would come to my side when she was uncomfortable.

Once anchored at Solomons Island, we went to a nearby marina to wash all our bedding, fortunately they had a pub where we could wait for the laundry out of the cold.

At the pub waiting on Laundry, today she is untrustworthy to leave alone.  It's possible she feels bad for what she's done or she want's to make sure we understand how unhappy she is feeling!

Using her custom toilet seat.  We cut out the center of the lid so she would have a larger area to squat on while the boat is moving. She needed quite a bit of reassurance and some occasional help balancing at first, but she is getting much more comfortable with it. It would be impossible on the standard compact head toilet seat while moving.

Casting Off The Docklines

When we returned home from circumnavigating the Caribbean, Passport was hauled out of the water and put in storage for a planned one year hiatus from sailing.  A little over three years later we are right on schedule to get back on the boat and head to points south, once again.  That math doesn’t sound like it’s on schedule you say?  Nothing has ever gone according to schedule or plan during our years of cruising.. so why start now!

One difference this year is that we now have a third crew member, our sailing and all around adventure cat, Lyra.  Although she has been to the boat on a few short trips, this will be her first experience traveling and living aboard.  I expect her to adapt as well as she has to every adventure she journeys on with us. 

In true Passport fashion we managed a few quick trips to the boat, did a few systems checks and preparations allowing us to be fully unprepared for a late cold departure in December.  Fortunately, this year we finally manage to add a full cockpit enclose to the boat.  It’s been on the project list since 2010, but just didn’t become a priority in the southern Caribbean.  It is a saving grace on this trip as we face frigid temperatures and winds getting out of the north in December. 

With a few projects done, and many more needing done, we stowed all provisions, secured all projectiles and cast off the docklines!

Lyra

Lyra has been instructed in proper head function. 

New dodger and cockpit enclosure.